Cruise through hell
Brazil Cruise on the Amazon Pictures
Cruise on the Amazon
The locals call "hell" the Amazon section between Jutai and Fonte Boa. Impressions of a river cruise. more pictures
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On an Amazon cruise, passengers experience the impressive nature of the rainforest. And at the same time, find out how endangered she is.
God does not go to hell every day. Certainly not in a cruise ship. Captain Carsten Gerke stands on the bridge of the MS Hanseatic and again checks the coordinates. No doubt, we are already in the middle of it: outside temperature almost 40 degrees, humidity more than 80 percent. Most of the guests have therefore withdrawn to the air-conditioned interior of the expedition ship. As if that could provide a little more cooling, there hang in the corridors photos of icebergs, where penguins are sitting.
Hell - this is what the locals call the section of the Amazon between the Brazilian cities of Jutaí and Fonte Boa. This is not an inhospitable place. You drive past small islands and permanently changing sandbanks. The river, which widens in places to the lake, winds like an anaconda in tight turns through lush rainforest. For a 122 meter long cruise ship, this is a tricky passage, the passage therefore only allowed by day.
A child has no father, who confesses to him? Then it was probably the river dolphin
For 16 days, the Hanseatic is on the way from Iquitos to the Amazon estuary in Belém; During this time she covers more than 4000 kilometers. During the rainy season between December and June, the Hanseatic and her sister ship, the Bremen, are the only large cruise ships that despite the higher, unclear water level also drive the section of the river in Peru, although there are not even reliable maps. "A case for the jungle book," says Gerke and opens a self-made map collection, which is oversubscribed as soon as the river has changed permanently. An effort that is worthwhile. After all, the Amazon is a myth for many travelers, as it is also the river of superlatives: the richest in water in the world and the river with the most tributaries. He traverses most of the South American continent. If one includes his source river, the Ucayali, he is with more than 6800 kilometers in front of the Nile even the longest river in the world.
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Card: SZ-graphic (Photo:)
The lives of indigenous peoples along the river have certainly changed permanently. About 100 tribes that have little contact with the outside world are said to still exist in the Amazon. Large-scale pastures, huge soybean acreage, progressive logging and gold miners that contaminate soil and rivers with mercury have not only severely damaged the ecosystem. Also, many indigenous tribes have been displaced; they have retreated to still untouched regions, but now often live in barren primeval forests in the black water. In the village of Pucaurquillo, about 100 kilometers east of Iquitos, some Uitotos and Boras live directly on the Amazon. They stay afloat with dance performances and the sale of handicrafts. They give the visitors a bit of that animist belief that once inspired their world.
"Pirarucú," says a Bora man, who has already dressed up with spring decorations and war paint for the dance show. He holds out the visitors a chain, on which dangle the dried scales of a primeval-looking predatory fish. It can be more than two meters long and weighs 150 kilograms and is, according to legend, an enchanted warrior. Further upstream, in the area of the Rio Negro, they even teach the pink Amazon dolphins the ability to turn themselves into handsome youths to charm young girls. If the paternity of a child is not clear, you can still find birth certificates, on which as a father "Boto", river dolphin, is noted.
The wildlife of the river explore the cruise guests in Zodiacs, rugged inflatable boats. In one of the side canals of the Rio Jutaí, expedition leader Ignacio Rojas heads branches that jut out of the water. Two iguanas and a sloth sit there, they have saved themselves from the rising water in the crowns of the trees. Because what looks like bushes, are in fact powerful jungle giants. "The rest of the trees have disappeared under the water," says Rojas. The biodiversity, it is immeasurable here. And no one can say how many plants and animals will disappear before they are even discovered. To date, nearly a fifth of the Amazon rainforest has been destroyed by deforestation and deforestation, according to the World Wide Fund For Nature (WWF).Brazil The city where everything goes
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Wherever the ship is moored, locals get into wooden canoes and start trading with the crew. Quickly three chickens were slaughtered, packed in a sack and disappeared over a rope in the white ship's belly. Bananas, coconuts and even live chickens are exchanged for things that are not so easy to obtain in the rainforest: plastic cans, T-shirts, shoes, fashion magazines. The women who sit in the canoes under colorful parasols, then tear out the first perfume samples and smell it for a long time. Gladly you would take the scent to Manaus; It stinks in the streets, because even some high-rise building in the two-million city has only one septic tank.
Many would like to go back in time to the era when Manaus was one of the richest cities in the world. In the tropical humid heat, the metropolis today only looks more like the faded dream of the rubber barons, to whom the town owed its rise at the end of the 19th century. The plantation owners, who had quickly come to too much money at that time, had palaces built - the master builders came with material from Europe.
The most striking building is undoubtedly the Teatro Amazonas, a Renaissance-style opera house full of plush. The tiles of the huge dome that overlooks the building were imported from the German Reich, mirrors and chandeliers made in Murano.
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